The Amazon

The coin landed on the side of the Amazon, so that’s what happened. Not without incident, of course… Took what I thought was a bus from the centre of Campo Grande to the airport, as the name had “Aero” in it, but I ended up down in some southern suburb, the airport being out to the north west, D’OH!! Not having enough time to get a bus back to the centre, and not being able to find a taxi anywhere, the only option was a “moto taxi” which is where you cling on to the back of a motorbike being driven by a mad Brazilian. After the initial effort of getting him to understand that I wanted to go to the airport (largely involving running around on the pavement with my arms out to each side and singing the Biggles music) he took me with all my luggage hanging off up there. As luck would have it he was a relatively safe driver!

So, the “direct” flight which actually consisted of 5 individual flights and took 13 hours got me to Manaus at 2:30 am, I decided to sit it out in the airport until sunrise at 6:00 and get a bus into town. Found myself a reasonable hotel and tried to get some sleep without much success, then went into town and gathered arm loads of leaflets about the various jungle outfits, and found a street bar to read them over a couple of beers. As I hadn’t slept for 36 hours or whatever the beers knocked me out virtually, and ended up negotiating a deal where the guy was talking in USD and I thought he was talking in Reals, bit of a screw up, and also booked 2 nights when I only really had time for 1. They promised me a refund of the 3rd day but of course it didn’t materialise, so paid a bit over the odds for all that.

Other than that the trip to the lodge was fascinating, very peaceful of course, and high water so you can paddle through the treetops which is an eerie feeling, because the water is so still you get the very deep reflection of the trees in the water, and is sort of feels like you’re flying in the canoe. Very trippy…

I caught a few piranhas which we had for dinner, and an alligator which we decided to pass on. Next day we’re walking on what little dry land there is through the jungle, by which I mean we were cutting our way through thick jungle with a machete. Lovely conditions as well, not too hot, no rain, and very few mosquitoes which surprised me.

After getting back to Manaus a day early, I then had to kill time until the flight left at 3:20 am, but when I got to the airport, the flight was full, so had to take another flight for an extra 200 reais or so, I was starting to think I was having one of those days. Now I am back in Rio, and my favourite hotel I was staying in is full, ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHH!!!! So for now I’m going to cry into my beer for a while and then sit on the beach, it’s 32 and gorgeous here today. Something will sort itself out!

The Pantanal

The Falls on the Argentina side are equally as impressive as the view from Brazil, but in a rather different way. Here you get to be much closer to the actual water, and you can spend a good few hours doing all the trails. It was also where the coach loads of wrinklies go, unfortunately, but with a good bit of artful planning you can manage to overtake them on the rather crowded walkways and save some time.

Amazingly all the bus connections to get me to Campo Grande worked out, I had a small hiccup with Brazilian immigration and now my entry/exit visa is already stamped to show I’m not in Brazil any more, so what’ll happen when I really try and leave in a week and a half remains to be seen! The bus from Foz to Campo Grande was a bit of a mare, I had a 328 year old Brazilian geezer next to me, who spoke to me for the full 20 hours without realising I don’t speak Portuguese, I swear. It also sounded like he has TB. Then we got dumped at a service station, the bus disappeared down the highway for an hour and a half without us, God knows where that went. Then to cap it all at 2am we got busted for drugs, plods with machine guns came aboard and stripped the bus and it’s luggage bare searching for gear, everything was out from the hold and all over the grass by the side of the road. This took a full 2 hours, and makes me suspicious as to where the drivers had been with the bus for the 1.5 hours previously. Maybe they made a courier stop in Bolivia or something…

Anyway, got myself on a trip into the heart of The Pantanal the same day, and stayed in a Pousada mounted on stilts to clear the flood waters. Nice place, a bit disorganised in Brazilian fashion, and needless to say it pissed with rain for the first day and night. We did a few bits and pieces, fished for piranhas, took boat trips up and down the river, saw a load of alligators, toucans and blue macaws and stuff. The highpoint was without doubt the horse riding, I had a nag that I decided to name “Ayrton Senna” as he only understood one command – “go as fast as I possibly can, no matter what” Great fun at full gallop through 2 foot deep water, desperately trying to hold on to the bastard.

We made it back to the bus to transfer us back to Campo Grande with a minute to spare, after the Pousada’s truck wouldn’t start, then once we push started it, it got buried in a foot of mud after 20 yards, then after pushing it out we got stuck in a herd of about 1,000 cows coming the other way, but we made it and after 4 nights in a mosi-infested pit with nothing but a cold shower and rice to eat I have treated myself to a night in the 5-star Hotel Bristol. Champagne backpacker, or what!?

Now I’m facing a dilemma on what to do next, I can fly to Manaus in the Amazon, but it’s quite a price on the flight, and the jungle trip may work out quite expensive, and I’m pushed for time. Otherwise I may go back to Rio and chill out for a while. I have this evening to decide…